Easy, DIY Waterproofing Solutions That Will LastWet or damp basements are the most frequent complaint of homeowners. Traditional, decades-old basement waterproofing methods have not passed the test of time: 'Over 60 per cent of basements have moisture seepage in one form or another, while 38 per cent experience mold and fungus growth due to an elevated moisture level.' – The American Society of Home Inspectors. Slab-on-grade buildings suffer similar moisture problems.

• Sealing Cracks In Foundation Wall
• How To Patch Cracks In Block Walls
• Repair Cracks In Block Walls

Now, there is a better solution!Improving Your Home's Health – For over 15 years our, DIY Crack Injection Kits, and basement waterproofing and radon mitigating products have proven to be the ideal solution for permanently waterproofing wet foundation walls, concrete floors and improving the overall health of your basement and home. Our unique, high-strength, basement waterproofing materials continue to be trusted by professionals and DIY homeowners alike.The Permanent Concrete Sealer – RadonSeal® is not 'your father's' waterproofing paint or sealer. RadonSeal differs from paints and membrane coatings by penetrating deep inside concrete (up to 4'), chemically reacting with lime and alkalis, expanding inside microscopic pores, and curing as a hard mineral. Once cured, RadonSeal will seal your concrete internally against the transmission of water seepage, water vapor and strong enough to seal against harmful radon gas. Why Basements Start Leaking WaterA hard driving rainstorm or melting snow can temporarily raises the groundwater level and for every inch of rain, a 1,500 sq. Roof sheds almost 1,000 gallons of water. Rain gutters and downspouts get plugged up with debris.

New houses have a problem with 'reverse grading,' which usually occurs several years after construction. Fill dirt around the foundation settles and directs rainwater right to the foundation.As the run-off seeps through the soft topsoil around the house, it pushes against the walls and stops at the undisturbed ground just beneath the footings. Footing drainsmay break as the house settles, or silt up. If the soil is clay, water then starts rising in the disturbed soil around the foundation like inside a pool.Hydrostatic Pressure – When water accumulates around the foundation, hydrostatic pressure builds up and causes the basement to leak.

Clay-rich soils do not drain well and hold rainwater right against the foundation walls. Water pushes its way inside through any cracks or joints and the pores in concrete. Rising groundwater is sometimes the problem or even an underground spring.

Houses settle and underground water flows change. New construction down the street may shift groundwater flows and cause basement leaks in your house.Settling Cracks – As houses settle, concrete develops stress cracks that leak water. Exterior waterproofing disintegrates or separates due to the 'alkali attack.' When water gets to embedded steel, it rusts, expands and cracks the concrete.Efflorescence Signifies Water Seepage – Water penetrates into the pores in concrete, dissolves alkalis, and enlarges the pores. As concrete ages, it becomes more and more porous.

Initially, the seeping water evaporates, leaving on the surface salts and lime. This 'white deposit' or efflorescence is a telltale sign of capillary water seepage.Plastic Barriers Do Not Last – Concrete slabs, although much thinner than basement walls get even less waterproofing protection. The plastic 'vapor barrier' soon disintegrates due to the lime in concrete and over time, the layer of gravel ('drainage pad') silts up. Then, the concrete starts pulling in groundwater by capillary action. Why Exterior Waterproofing Does Not LastTar Waterproofing Is Brittle – Tar waterproofing has absolutely no 'give' and cracks as the concrete constantly contracts and expands, and as the house settles.

Similarly, tar paper or pargeting (a layer of mortar) on block walls are inelastic and crack.Concrete is 'very strongly alkaline' (pH above 9). Water carries dissolved alkalis to its surface, where they attack any waterproofing coating by saponification ('alkali attack') and even the concrete itself. Alkaline soils in some regions speed up this process and can 'eat' away inches of concrete over several years.All waterproofing coatings gradually break down or separate, even flexible elastomeric liquid membranes. Elastomeric sheet membranes separate as the alkalis attack the primer and taped joints - they are guaranteed for only 5 to 10 years.In the end, the concrete is on its own! It may continue to do a good job for several years but water will gradually activate alkalis, leach out the concrete, and enlarge the pores, making water seepage inevitable. Water is the root problem – in perfectly dry conditions, concrete and waterproofing would last forever.Wouldn't it be great to somehow stop water migration by internally sealing the pores and to neutralize the alkalis in concrete surface to protect the concrete and any waterproofing coating against 'alkali attack'?That's exactly what RadonSeal does!'

Then, the concrete starts pulling in groundwater by capillary action. How To Waterproof Your Basement in 4-StepsTackling a basement waterproofing project can prove to be daunting task but the labor involved may not be as strenuous as you thought. Follow this basic step-by-step approach for drying out your damp basement:STEP 1: Remove any paints, sealers, tile adhesive, efflorescence, and oils from the concrete.STEP 2: Shop-vac the surface of the concrete removing loose or crumbling concrete, mortar, dust, and dirt.STEP 3: Seal the concrete walls and floor against moisture with RadonSeal®. You can move all your 'stuff' to one side of the basement and seal the other side first. Let the concrete dry out for a couple days and then, seal the other side.STEP 4: Make any repairs to foundation cracks, floor cracks, gaps, control joints, floor-to-wall joints, etc.How To Seal An Stone Foundation Wall – RadonSeal will strengthen and waterproof old mortar as well as limestone. Remove crumbling mortar then, seal with RadonSeal. Afterwards, tuck point the mortar where needed.

RadonSeal will not inhibit the bond of mortar, adhesive, thin set, paints, tiles, etc.How To Seal A Brick Foundation Wall – RadonSeal is best used on concrete. It can be used to seal brick but you can run the risk of changing the appearance of the brick (leaving a white film on the surface that would be difficult to remove). For waterproofing a brick foundation wall we recommend sealing it with. Reviews of RadonSeal® Products'.water issue in the basement.

The water was actually puddling in the middle of the room, coming up from under the concrete floor. I used the Radon seal and to my amazement.

No more water.' – Tom F., Atlanta, GA'.cinder block wall was seeping water, so I sealed it with Drylock. But after several months, efflorescence pushed it out and it blistered and peeled. I cleaned the concrete and painted it again two times, but it always peeled and leaked again. Then, I tried your RadonSeal. It pushed out rivers of efflorescence from the concrete and it is now bone-dry. Thanks' – Brian D., NC'.very happy with RadonSeal.

I used it on the basement floor of a house we have built at Cape Cod, and have found it to be excellent for curing and then, sealing concrete. I have been building houses for years but have never seen or heard of any other product that could compare to it' – Donald N., MA'.radon seal and applied to the basement walls and floor over 1 1/2 years ago.

Sealing Cracks In Foundation Wall

Up until that point the basement was a mess. The floor seeped and the walls leaked. Since then, the basement has been dry, the musty smell is gone.a safe bedroom to sleep in during storms since we are prone to tornados here in Oklahoma' – Alice C., OKRead moreCustomers' feedback and tips on. Commercial-Grade, Concrete and Basement Care ProductsIf your basement is still unfinished and unpainted, our line of waterproofing products will make waterproofing your basement concrete quick, easy and saving you on both time and money.RadonSeal® Basement Concrete Sealer – Our champion concrete sealer! RadonSeal works deep inside concrete walls, floors, concrete blocks, and cinder blocks both strengthening and waterproofing the substrate permanently.

RadonSeal dries clear, leaves no color or film on the surface that can peel off or wear away and cannot be pushed out regardless of hydrostatic water pressure. The cured mineral becomes integral to the concrete. RadonSeal is safe to use indoors because it contains no chemical solvents or VOCs.

It's spray-on application is quick and easy for both contractors or homeowners.The application of RadonSeal is simple. All you will need to apply it with is a hand-pump 'garden' sprayer (readily found in major hardware stores). Please take the time to read our.– Our diverse line of foundation crack repairs kits are used for permanently filling cracks in poured concrete walls and stopping leaky cracks. Used by professional waterproofing contractors the low-pressure injection method eliminates any need for drilling making repairs easy enough for homeowners to do themselves.

The low viscosity urethane is suitable even for the repair of hairline cracks. The kits arrive to you complete - all you need is a standard caulking gun for injection.– CrackWeld® provides a quick and permanent repair of stress cracks in basement floors and concrete slabs. CrackWeld's low viscosity, self-leveling resin, can penetrate even inside hairline cracks without the need to rout the crack first!

Designed for flooring contractors but also used by homeowners, the kit comes complete with full instruction and a step-by-step video. Cures in minutes and strong (harder than concrete itself).– ElastiPoxy™ is a unique product for the specific repair of control joints, floor-to-wall joints, cracks in concrete blocks, and wide cracks in concrete, brick, and masonry (1/2'). When used straight ElastiPoxy offers the desired flexibility, bond, and strength needed to make proper repairs of expansion control and floor-to-wall joints. When mixed with silica sand, it the sealant will provide a rigid repair for waterproofing cracks in concrete blocks walls, wide stress cracks, or for filling concrete spalls in slabs. How Water Gets Through ConcreteConcrete is naturally porous – typically 10 to 18 percent air (with extremes 2–60%). To make new concrete 'workable,' a water-to-cement ratio of 0.45–0.50 is the norm but cement only needs a half of the water (0.25 w/c ratio) for hydration.

As concrete cures, all the surplus water escapes to its surface and evaporates. This 'bleeding water' leaves a network of tiny capillaries (pores) inside the concrete.We cannot see the pores. Their size ranges from 3 nm (millionths of a mm) to 0.1 mm (the diameter of a human hair). The median is about 1 micron (1,000 nm) but a water molecule is 3,000 times smaller (0.28 nm).

By all logic, concrete should leak like a sieve!So, what holds the water back? Not the concrete but the physics of water itself. Although water not as viscous as molasses, it takes pressure to push it through a dry microscopic pore. Surface tension holds the 'blob' of water inside the dry pore until its surface gets wet. But add repeated water pressure during occasional rainstorms or condensation on the interior and after a while, the inside of the pore gets wet and water starts flowing through it.Concrete is hygroscopic - it attracts water by absorption and once the pores get wet, they draw in water from the ground below by wicking action (capillary suction).

Water may take years to start seeping through concrete but nothing holds back gases - invisible water vapor and radon gas flow right through the pores. How to Check for Moisture TransmissionMany home sales get re-negotiated or even canceled when the building inspector discovers moisture in the basement. Make sure to check for leaks and any visible cracks in the concrete, the floor-to-wall joints, expansion control joints in the floor, and all penetrations.You can test for moisture transmission through the concrete by placing a foot-square of plastic or aluminum foil on the floor or wall, seal the edges with duct tape, and check after a couple of days for drops of water. Waterproofing New Concrete Foundationspreserves new concrete and it protects concrete against the gradual deterioration caused by groundwater. Sealing the concrete early on, particularly before finishing the basement, will help avoid future headaches! If you have a brand new basement, now is the best time to prevent future moisture problems, to waterproof and strengthen the concrete, reduce cracking, ('white powder') and, and to preserve the concrete.As concrete cures, it inevitably develops capillaries. Allow new concrete to cure for at least 28 days and then, deep-seal the poured walls and slab with RadonSeal® Standard.

In case of or, let the mortar cure for at least 14 days and seal them with RadonSeal® Plus. Waterproofing Foundations on The ExteriorCombining RadonSeal With An Exterior Waterproofing Coating – RadonSeal is usually used in combination with an exterior waterproofing coating, which is required by building codes in most counties. Exterior coating bridges cracks, holes, or defects in the concrete. RadonSeal does the waterproofing job after the coating deteriorates. By neutralizing alkalis in concrete, it also greatly extends the life of the waterproofing coating.In general, the lower the quality of concrete the higher the need to apply a waterproofing coating over RadonSeal. Unfilled cinder blocks and concrete blocks have only thin walls (1-1/4') on either side of the hollow cores. Some have visible large pores.

The most effective RadonSeal application is waterproofing both sides of the walls. But first, the concrete has to cure for 28 days, or 14 days for mortar in block walls. After applying RadonSeal, let the concrete dry out for at least 3 days before applying an exterior waterproofing coating.However, many contractors have to backfill in just a few days. In that case, use the usual exterior waterproofing coating and later, apply RadonSeal at least on the inside of the walls. Although this will not protect the outer layer of concrete against water, it will still waterproof the walls.

Alternative Waterproofing Methods for BasementsINSTALL A SUMP PUMP ($900–$1,50) – If your water issue is serious (a high water table), you will need to purchase and install a sump pump. Sump pumps drain water from the gravel bed underneath the basement floor. Relying on one sump pump, however, is risky, particularly if your basement is finished! The pump or the grid may fail during a severe storm or spring snow melt. Installing a backup, either a or a is a smart decision and an inexpensive insurance.INTERIOR DRAINAGE GUTTERS ($3,000–$6,000) – A plastic channel system ('interior gutters') is glued around the perimeter of the basement floor to collect water seeping through the foundation walls and to take it to a sump pump basin. Why is installing plastic channels a bad idea? If you are planning to, common sense would tell you that water should be kept out and not allowed to seep in.

It would be impossible to frame and finish the walls because water sitting in the channels behind the drywall would lead to. Moreover, the channel system does not address water seeping directly through the concrete floor.EXTERIOR FOOTING DRAINS ($13,000–$20,000) – Excavating the earth next to the foundation walls, laying gravel, installing perimeter drains, removing old tar from foundation walls, applying a polymer waterproofing membrane, backfilling, and finally, re-landscaping. Whew!INTERIOR FRENCH DRAIN ($5,000–$9,000) – The 'go-to' solution of most waterproofing contractors. To install the French drain, the perimeter of the basement slab must be jackhammered, earth dug out to form a trench, followed by laying a perforated pipe over a stone bed.

How To Patch Cracks In Block Walls

The pipe will drain the water from underneath the basement floor to a sump basin. The concrete is filled back in. This method does not work very well if the gravel bed is silted up and does little for seepage through basement walls. The French drain method leaves a gap at the floor-to-wall joint to allow water seeping through the walls to flow down to the French drain. These open gaps and the natural vacuum in basements cause the inflow of moisture-laden gas and radon gas from the soil. This leads to increased humidity and harmful levels in the basement.

Good Morning Rob13,It's a great day in the Paint Department!I created this video to show you the products you can use to seal the cracks in your cinder block wall.Three of the products are designed to simply fill the crack in your wall, but only the fourth will hold back hydrostatic pressure (water from outside coming through the wall).All four are paintable, but remember to use an oil-based primer if you choose the PL Concrete Crack Sealant because it contains mineral spirits. The other simple crack fillers, DAP Concrete Caulk and Quickrete in a caulk tube, are water-based and can be primed and painted with water-based products.Should you have hydrostatic pressure, you will need to use DryLok Fast Plug to stop the leak.

Fast Plug is a Hydraulic Cement that works best if you open the seam into an inverted V-channel and then trowel it into the channel. The mixed product expands to fill the channel and seals active water flow through the wall.The Behr Waterproofing Paint you already purchased will cover all four of these products.Others in the Community may be pleased to learn that Behr's Waterproofing Paint is tintable into several light colors. A color chart is located next the product in the Paint Department.Finally, I noticed that was helping you yesterday and I am including a to his thread.If you have excessive moisture in that area, you will likely need to kill both mold and mildew to ensure proper adhesion of your paint. Follow up if this is one of your issues and one of us can assist you further.I hope this helps! Good Morning Rob13, It's a great day in the Paint Department! I created this video to show you the products you can use to seal the cracks in your cinder block wall.   Three of the products are designed to simply fill the crack in your wall, but only the fourth will hold back hydrostatic pressure (water from outside coming through the wall). All four are paintable, but remember to use an oil-based primer if you choose the PL Concrete Crack Sealant because it contains mineral spirits. The other simple crack fillers, DAP Concrete Caulk and Quickrete in a caulk tube, are water-based and can be primed and painted with water-based products. Should you have hydrostatic pressure, you will need to use DryLok Fast Plug to stop the leak.

Fast Plug is a Hydraulic Cement that works best if you open the seam into an inverted V-channel and then trowel it into the channel. The mixed product expands to fill the channel and seals active water flow through the wall. The Behr Waterproofing Paint you already purchased will cover all four of these products. Others in the Community may be pleased to learn that Behr's Waterproofing Paint is tintable into several light colors. A color chart is located next the product in the Paint Department. Finally, I noticed that SteelToes was helping you yesterday and I am including a link to his thread. If you have excessive moisture in that area, you will likely need to kill both mold and mildew to ensure proper adhesion of your paint. Follow up if this is one of your issues and one of us can assist you further. I hope this helps! I recently had a thirty year old porch replaced on my house. The original cinder blocks had crumbled, and no longer were supporting the concrete pad adequately.

I am still not sure what cause the blocks to crumble, but I'm hoping that by applying a sealant, or some type of weather protection on the new cinder block walls will keep this from happening in the future. Can you suggest a sealant or protection that can be applied to the cinder blocks? I look forward to your reply. Hello ShoeBridge!In the video and written thread above, we discussed.This product is simple to apply, will protect your new block. And can be ordered in several off-white and light colors at The Paint Pit.If your block is exposed to active groundwater, you'll want to use a product labeled for hydrostatic pressure.

Behr Basement and Masonry paint will withstand up to 10 lb. Of hydrostatic pressure. Hydrostatic paint is also discussed in the video.APPLICATION: Expect to use a stiff nylon bristle brush and a 1/2 nap or 3/4 nap roller to apply these product. Follow dry-time instructions before applying your second coat. Hello ShoeBridge! In the video and written thread above, we discussed Behr Basement and Masonry paint.

This product is simple to apply, will protect your new block. And can be ordered in several off-white and light colors at The Paint Pit. If your block is exposed to active groundwater, you'll want to use a product labeled for hydrostatic pressure. Behr Basement and Masonry paint will withstand up to 10 lb.

Of hydrostatic pressure. Hydrostatic paint is also discussed in the video. APPLICATION: Expect to use a stiff nylon bristle brush and a 1/2 nap or 3/4 nap roller to apply these product. Follow dry-time instructions before applying your second coat.

I was just googling and found this, big help.I don't think I have any hydrostatic pressur in my home (although, I can't be sure of that, any way to tell?).With that said, I was looking at one of the 3 easier solutions in a tube to fill my cracks and prevent any leaks during a hard rain. You mention The other simple crack fillers like DAP Concrete Caulk and Quickrete in a caulk tube.Can you describe the difference between the 3 you mention on there? Is one better than the other for any reason?Thanks! I was just googling and found this, big help. I don't think I have any hydrostatic pressur in my home (although, I can't be sure of that, any way to tell?). With that said, I was looking at one of the 3 easier solutions in a tube to fill my cracks and prevent any leaks during a hard rain. You mention The other simple crack fillers like DAP Concrete Caulk and Quickrete in a caulk tube. Can you describe the difference between the 3 you mention on there? Is one better than the other for any reason? Thanks!

Thanks for the follow-up question Shackrock!I love it when people find my posts on Google!Glad the video was helpful as well!Hydraulic cement is unique because it expands as it dries and will stop active foundation leaks. It is powder you mix with water. When the word 'hydraulic' appears on the product label, this is the indicator that it will stop the flow of pressurized water.The three caulk tube concrete crack fillers are not hydraulic. They fill cracks and will prevent the flow of passive water, but are not designed to hold back hydrostatic pressure or ground-water pushing up from beneath the foundation.: water-based: solvent-based: ready-mix Quikrete concrete in a caulk tubeClick the hyperlinks for product specifications.

Thanks for the follow-up question Shackrock! I love it when people find my posts on Google! Glad the video was helpful as well! Hydraulic cement is unique because it expands as it dries and will stop active foundation leaks. It is powder you mix with water. When the word 'hydraulic' appears on the product label, this is the indicator that it will stop the flow of pressurized water. The three caulk tube concrete crack fillers are not hydraulic. They fill cracks and will prevent the flow of passive water, but are not designed to hold back hydrostatic pressure or ground-water pushing up from beneath the foundation. DAP Concrete Caulk: water-based PL Concrete Crack and Masonry Sealant: solvent-based Quikrete Mortar Repair: ready-mix Quikrete concrete in a caulk tube Click the hyperlinks for product specifications.

Repair Cracks In Block Walls

Hello,I have a downstairs room that has been leaking for a while. I tore out the original drywall and removed the damaged furring strips. I tried to paint the wall with the UGL sealer. I guess the walls were way to wet because the sealer just ran right off the walls.

I am trying to dry out the walls and try again. I placed a small heater with a blower against the wall and it seams to be getting worse.

I thought about getting some of the masonary waterproofing cement from Home Depot to help seal it. I am at a loss of really what to do.

Hello, I have a downstairs room that has been leaking for a while. I tore out the original drywall and removed the damaged furring strips. I tried to paint the wall with the UGL sealer. I guess the walls were way to wet because the sealer just ran right off the walls. I am trying to dry out the walls and try again. I placed a small heater with a blower against the wall and it seams to be getting worse.

I thought about getting some of the masonary waterproofing cement from Home Depot to help seal it. I am at a loss of really what to do. Hello, am enjoying this conversation because I have a very old block building that when it rains water leaks inside. I discovered that long time ago the windows were blocked with a poor job done and they have a lip at the bottom. Someone tried to seal the seam between the lip and the now blocked window with cement mix but when it rains water permeates and leak inside.

I already painted the outer wall but would like to seal these old blocked windows. Another option will be to re-open some windows and leave others blocked for security reasons. I still need something to help seal the ones I will leave blocked, and I can re-paint them afterwards. This is needed on the outer wall. Hello, am enjoying this conversation because I have a very old block building that when it rains water leaks inside. I discovered that long time ago the windows were blocked with a poor job done and they have a lip at the bottom.

Someone tried to seal the seam between the lip and the now blocked window with cement mix but when it rains water permeates and leak inside. I already painted the outer wall but would like to seal these old blocked windows.

Another option will be to re-open some windows and leave others blocked for security reasons. I still need something to help seal the ones I will leave blocked, and I can re-paint them afterwards.

This is needed on the outer wall. Thanks for picking up the thread salsacola!Your Old House is just a step away from a solid seal that will not leak.If a gap exists or if you can create a gap, the can be mixed and troweled into the seam. Once dry, you could paint with.ORYou could tape the existing seams and windows and use one of the new spray sealants.and from Rust-Oleum are both great products to waterproof existing materials with only a small amount of effort.You might try the simple approach and if you still see a leak, then apply the next level of effort. Thanks for picking up the thread salsacola! Your Old House is just a step away from a solid seal that will not leak. If a gap exists or if you can create a gap, the hydraulic cement can be mixed and troweled into the seam. Once dry, you could paint with Behr Concrete Waterproofing.SEE VIDEO HERE: OR You could tape the existing seams and windows and use one of the new spray sealants. Leak Stop and NeverWet from Rust-Oleum are both great products to waterproof existing materials with only a small amount of effort. You might try the simple approach and if you still see a leak, then apply the next level of effort.

HiOur bulkhead sits on a row of cinderblocks atop a concrete foundation, and this fall we brought in some loam to level and reseed the back yard. When we did that, the seam went from being above grade to level with the grade, and after a snow-turned-to-rain storm yesterday and last night, I had a minor flood in the basement.

What do you think my best course of action is? It woldn't take much to dig around the bulkhead foundation to apply something on the outside, but we're on Cape Cod, and in addition to snow, rain and puddling, temperatures this time of year seem to average anywhere from 20's to 40's, so I'd need something I can use in those temps. Time is also of the essence because my wife and I have twins on the way any day now, and I'm in the middle of a pretty big bathroom floor repair.What do you think? Hi Our bulkhead sits on a row of cinderblocks atop a concrete foundation, and this fall we brought in some loam to level and reseed the back yard. When we did that, the seam went from being above grade to level with the grade, and after a snow-turned-to-rain storm yesterday and last night, I had a minor flood in the basement. What do you think my best course of action is? It woldn't take much to dig around the bulkhead foundation to apply something on the outside, but we're on Cape Cod, and in addition to snow, rain and puddling, temperatures this time of year seem to average anywhere from 20's to 40's, so I'd need something I can use in those temps.

Time is also of the essence because my wife and I have twins on the way any day now, and I'm in the middle of a pretty big bathroom floor repair.What do you think?